In recent years, there has been quite a change in the perception of watches equipped with a perpetual calendar. As an esteemed and classic complication, it was usually displayed in the traditional way, with subdials and windows for the moon phase under which a disc runs. This was the standard recipe for decades until the sports watch began to replace the gold dress watch as luxury item. It paved the way to incorporate the perpetual calendar in new ways into timepieces, as Panerai did with the new Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo PAM01269.
The Luminor has always been an unapologetically large watch, as it should be because that is also part of its appeal. As a poster boy for the tool watch, integrating a perpetual calendar complication into this watch is challenging. Panerai cleverly divided the different functions between the front and the back, allowing it to give you a lot of information while maintaining a clean look. The functions on the front are the ones you use the most, like the day and date. Panerai complemented that with a second timezone complication, making this Luminor also a practical travel companion. For this model, the dial is partially translucent. This allows you to see the day and date rings underneath, adding to the technical look of the Panerai. It also makes it that the thick hour markers seem to float, which is a very attractive detail.
On the back, we find a traditional three-quarter plate in which Panerai integrated the month, year, leap year, and power reserve indicator. The rest of the space is occupied by an attractive gold micro-rotor and the balance wheel, which is placed under a full bridge for better shock protection. When fully wound, the movement has a power reserve of 3-days. It is safe to say that the back of the watch is as attractive as the front without compromising that tool-watch feel that, I feel, is mandatory with any Panerai.
The Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo PAM01269 is also a treat in another way, as Panerai will only make 33 of them. The brand invites the clients who buy them to visit Florence, Italy, the home of Panerai, and experience the city in a unique way. Buyers will also get an NFT to mark the occasion.
More information on the Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo can be found on the website of Panerai.
Images by Alex Teuscher